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We all have our secret indulgences, those little culinary transgressions we'd rather not admit to in polite company. But what if those guilty pleasures were elevated to fine dining status, reimagined by a talented chef and served up in a trendy restaurant setting? That's exactly what Six By Nico in Oxford's Westgate Centre has accomplished with their latest tasting menu, aptly titled "Guilty Pleasures."
As I settled into my seat at this buzzing eatery, I couldn't help but reflect on the confessions I'd gathered from friends about their own shameful snacks. From Fray Bentos pies devoured straight from the tin to bizarre sandwich concoctions involving Hula Hoops, it seemed everyone had a food skeleton in their closet. But could these lowbrow treats really translate to high-end cuisine?
A Culinary Journey Through Nostalgia and Indulgence
Six By Nico, the brainchild of Scottish-Italian chef Nico Simeone, has built its reputation on constantly evolving tasting menus that change every six weeks. Each menu tells a story through six carefully crafted courses, and "Guilty Pleasures" is no exception. From the moment I perused the menu, it was clear that Simeone and his team had done their homework on the secret cravings of the British public.
The meal began with a playful take on the humble cheese board, reimagined as a delicate "cheese" made from whipped goat's cheese, accompanied by a homemade fruit chutney and an ingenious "cracker" crafted from dehydrated sourdough. This elevated version of a classic starter set the tone for the evening – familiar flavors presented in surprising and sophisticated ways.
Next came a dish that paid homage to the great British chip shop: "Fish Supper 2.0." A perfectly cooked piece of cod was nestled alongside a crispy potato terrine, with mushy pea emulsion and pickled onion providing the necessary tang. A spritz of malt vinegar "air" completed the sensory experience, evoking memories of seaside holidays and newspaper-wrapped takeaways.
Childhood Favorites Grow Up
As the courses progressed, it became clear that Six By Nico was not just recreating guilty pleasures, but reimagining them entirely. A standout dish was the "Pot Noodle," which bore little resemblance to its convenience store namesake. Instead, diners were treated to a bowl of handmade noodles in a rich, umami-packed broth, topped with soy-cured egg yolk and crispy chicken skin. It was a far cry from the dehydrated dorm room staple, yet it captured the essence of what makes instant noodles so addictive.
The "Nutella Toast" course was another triumph of culinary alchemy. A square of brioche was toasted to perfection and adorned with a quenelle of chocolate cremeux, hazelnut praline, and a scattering of gold leaf. A drizzle of Frangelico syrup completed the dish, elevating a simple childhood treat to the realm of fine patisserie.
A Sweet Finish with a Twist
No exploration of guilty pleasures would be complete without a nod to the world of confectionery, and Six By Nico delivered with their penultimate course: "Snickers." This deconstructed version of the popular candy bar featured a peanut parfait, caramel mousse, and chocolate ganache, artfully arranged on the plate with a scattering of peanut brittle for texture. It was a masterclass in balance, with each element perfectly complementing the others.
The meal concluded with a clever palate cleanser disguised as a "Solero" – a lime and passionfruit sorbet encased in a white chocolate shell, perched atop a pool of exotic fruit coulis. It was a refreshing end to a rich and indulgent meal, leaving diners satisfied but not overstuffed.
